NCTO Leadership Change: MMI Textiles Founder Takes the Helm

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) has completed a leadership transition, with Amy Bircher Bruyn, founder and CEO of MMI Textiles, appointed as chair and Jay Todd as vice chair. This move signals a strategic shift in U.S. textile industry advocacy, placing operational leaders at the forefront of policy battles.

Industry Signals Behind the Leadership Change

Bruyn’s MMI Textiles specializes in technical and specialty fabrics, not traditional commodity textiles. Her appointment suggests NCTO will prioritize high-value, functional fabric protection and market expansion. Vice chair Jay Todd’s background in yarns indicates a push to align interests across the entire fiber-to-garment supply chain.

For Chinese textile exporters, this leadership change is more than internal U.S. politics. NCTO has been a key force behind tariffs on Chinese textiles and stricter rules of origin. Under Bruyn and Todd, the organization is expected to focus on three legislative priorities in the 2025-2026 cycle: expanding 'Made in USA' labeling requirements to include more finishing processes, tightening origin verification for Southeast Asian transshipment, and linking sustainability certifications to market access.

Sino-U.S. Textile Competition Amid Supply Chain Restructuring

The timing of NCTO’s leadership change is significant. In 2024, Chinese textile exports to the U.S. showed structural divergence: conventional woven fabric volumes fell roughly 3%, while functional and recycled fiber products grew. Bruyn’s technical textile segment is precisely where Sino-U.S. competition is most intense.

U.S. textile logic is clear: use industry associations to lobby for legislation like the 'Textile Industry Revitalization Act,' leveraging tariffs and origin rules to buy time for domestic manufacturers. Chinese suppliers should adjust strategies in two ways: accelerate capacity deployment within the USMCA framework (Mexico, Central America) to bypass origin restrictions, and proactively align with U.S. sustainability standards to avoid being excluded from premium procurement lists.

Practical Recommendations

For fabric exporters to the U.S. - Immediately review HS codes of current export products to assess if they fall under NCTO’s ‘sensitive categories,’ especially technical textiles and specialty yarns - Monitor U.S. Customs rulings on ‘substantial transformation’ to avoid over-reliance on simple cut-and-sew transshipment - Secure international certifications like GRS and OEKO-TEX in advance, particularly for recycled polyester and organic cotton products

For trading companies - Establish a tracking mechanism for NCTO policy updates, focusing on the lobbying priorities in its quarterly 'Textile Industry Status Report' - When evaluating partner factories in USMCA countries like Mexico and Honduras, prioritize those with vertical integration capabilities - Include ‘tariff cost-sharing’ clauses in contracts with U.S. buyers to mitigate risks from sudden policy changes