The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), the leading trade association representing the full U.S. textile supply chain from fiber to finished sewn products, completed its officer elections for fiscal year 2026 at its annual meeting held April 14-16. Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO and Founder of MMI Textiles, was elected Chair, with Jay Todd assuming the role of Vice Chair. The change in leadership comes at a pivotal moment for the American textile industry, which is grappling with import competition, trade policy uncertainty, and the need for technological modernization.
Background and Industry Context
The timing of this election is significant. U.S. textile mills have faced persistent pressure from low-cost imports, particularly from Southeast Asia and South Asia. Meanwhile, tariff policies with major trading partners remain in flux, creating volatility in raw material costs. NCTO serves as the primary conduit between the industry and policymakers, so leadership transitions often signal shifts in advocacy priorities.
Amy Bircher Bruyn brings hands-on experience from running a mid-sized textile firm, giving her insight into the challenges faced by small and medium enterprises. In her acceptance remarks, she outlined three core priorities: strengthening country-of-origin labeling enforcement, securing favorable terms in trade agreements, and advancing circular economy and digitalization initiatives within the sector. Vice Chair Jay Todd, with his deep supply chain expertise, is expected to focus on raw material procurement and logistics efficiency.
Industry Impact and Policy Direction
The new leadership is likely to maintain NCTO's strong stance on "Made in USA" initiatives. The organization has historically lobbied to preserve the Berry Amendment, which mandates U.S.-made textiles for federal procurement. Under Bruyn, this advocacy may intensify, especially regarding enforcement mechanisms.
On trade policy, Bruyn's background at MMI Textiles suggests NCTO will place greater emphasis on protecting domestic manufacturers from import surges. This could translate into stronger support for anti-dumping measures and stricter rules of origin in trade negotiations. The organization may also push for more transparent supply chain data to help members navigate tariff adjustments.
Sustainability is another area of focus. NCTO has established a working group to study the impact of carbon border adjustment mechanisms on the textile industry. Bruyn has publicly advocated for "responsible manufacturing," indicating that the council may roll out voluntary sustainability guidelines or certification programs in the near future.
Practical Recommendations
For Buyers - Monitor NCTO's evolving stance on origin labeling to ensure compliance in procurement contracts, especially for government-related orders. - Prioritize suppliers that align with NCTO's emerging sustainability standards to reduce future compliance risks. - Evaluate the reliability of U.S. domestic production capacity when considering import substitution strategies.
For Exporters - Prepare for potential anti-dumping investigations by documenting cost structures and production processes for goods exported to the U.S. - Explore collaboration opportunities with U.S. SMEs, leveraging the new chair's focus on small business interests. - Use NCTO's quarterly industry reports on capacity utilization and inventory levels to time export shipments effectively.
Overall, the NCTO leadership change reflects a strategic recalibration within the U.S. textile industry. The new team's practical orientation suggests that advocacy will become more grounded in operational realities. For Chinese textile companies, understanding NCTO's direction can help anticipate micro-level policy shifts in Sino-U.S. textile trade, enabling better order planning and compliance management.