New Leadership at NCTO Signals Strategic Shift for US Textiles

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), which represents the full US textile supply chain from fiber to finished sewn products, held its annual meeting from April 14 to 16, 2026, and elected new officers. Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO and Founder of MMI Textiles, was named Chair, while Jay Todd assumed the role of Vice Chair. This leadership transition comes at a pivotal moment for the US textile industry, which is navigating shifting trade policies and supply chain realignments.

Background

NCTO's leadership changes often signal the industry's evolving priorities. Bruyn's company, MMI Textiles, specializes in functional fabrics, while Todd has extensive experience in yarn manufacturing and supply chain management. Their combined expertise from different segments of the supply chain suggests the association may focus on enhancing vertical cooperation. The election coincides with ongoing reviews of US import tariffs on certain textile products and the accelerating nearshoring trend within North America. In 2025, total US textile imports declined slightly year-over-year, while the share from Mexico and Canada increased. The new NCTO leadership will need to represent member interests in trade negotiations with the government.

Industry Impact

The new leadership is expected to steer the US textile sector in several directions. Trade policy advocacy may shift from pure tariff protection to more nuanced rules of origin discussions, aligning with supply chain integration under the USMCA framework. Bruyn's experience with automated weaving technologies at MMI Textiles could also push NCTO to invest more in technical standards development. Meanwhile, US textile manufacturers face rising labor costs, with average hourly wages exceeding $18 in 2025, and stricter environmental regulations, including state-level PFAS restrictions that impact functional fabric production. The new team must balance short-term survival pressures with long-term sustainability goals. Globally, the US retains advantages in high-end technical textiles but continues to lose competitiveness in basic fabrics. The effectiveness of the new leadership will be judged by their ability to strengthen technological barriers through industry-academia collaboration and federal R&D funding.

Practical Recommendations

For Buyers - Monitor NCTO's policy shifts: The association's new stance on textile imports could affect trade terms between the US, China, and Mexico, so buyers should track their lobbying priorities closely. - Reassess North American suppliers: With nearshoring accelerating, re-evaluate the capacity and delivery reliability of US and Mexican suppliers, especially for functional fabrics. - Build tariff risk buffers: Until trade policies stabilize, negotiate flexible pricing with suppliers to hedge against potential cost fluctuations from tariff adjustments.

For Exporters - Strengthen technical compliance: US environmental regulations, such as PFAS bans, are tightening. Upgrade finishing processes in advance to avoid losing orders due to non-compliance. - Target high-value segments: While the US cedes ground in basic fabrics, demand for industrial textiles and smart textiles is growing—a blue ocean opportunity for exporters. - Establish industry association channels: Engage with NCTO activities or build connections with US counterparts to gain early access to policy signals and reduce information asymmetry.